Some Step Makers Need To Return To School To Relearn Their Craft.

(revised)

4/30 to 5/1 Stecoah Gap NC

I spent these two day resupplying in Robbinsville and watching old Westerns at the Hostel. 

Monday 5/2 Cody Gap

After being dropped off at the Gap I started hiking to Sweetwater Gap. That was an easy climb but then came the climb up Jacob’s Ladder; all 647 feet of it in ½ miles. I owe a sincere apology to Wildcat Mtn. 

I started to get mad at it. That “madness” kept me focused on climbing. Jacob’s Ladder is a triple Summit.  As soon as I crested one summit and thought I was going to descend then I would start climbing again to the second, then the third. I was a good ways descending after the third summit before I realized that there wasn’t a fourth. 

As I made Brown Fork Gap I went to the shelter for lunch and a nap. There I met Turbo.

Turbo was a small man with an above elbow amputated left arm. Scrappy fellow. We talked for a bit then he headed out. I ate then took a short nap. 

As you can see there was a strange gap between the platform and whatever that was that the pillars rested on. 

After my nap I continued on. 

I soon got to a place where I could see Santeetlah Lake. 

I passed Hogback Gap and then hiked thru a rock garden. Over another rise and then I came to Cody Gap. There were five others camping there. 

I broke the hammock out and set it up. Then I dumped all my gear into it and then got water. Cooked my dinner of tuna and ramen and dined rustically. 

I cowboyed and some of the others had a surprise look that I wasn’t going to sleep in the hammock but with no under quilting it would have been still too cool. 

Tuesday 5/3 Fontana Dam Shelter

I was up by dawn but the others were already packed and moving out. 

After breakfast of oatmeal I was packed and on the move. 

It didn’t take me long to reach Yellow Creek Gap, at least not long by my standards. I made it by noon. Yellow Creek Gap has Yellow Creek Rd running through it. I had to come down those homemade trail steps to reach the gap and one step was a little over twice the depth of a standard step. I didn’t realize that until I was in space. I landed hard. 

There was a stone that my left foot landed on about the right size to give me a stone bruise just in front of the heel in the arch. 

Ouch! 

I went down the rest of the stairs very gingerly. 

I was in serious doubt I would make the next shelter much less Fontana Dam with my heel feeling like this and I didn’t want to spend the night in the rain. My app showed that there was a hostel in the area but with T-Mobile I wasn’t getting a signal. I used the GPS on this app and hobbled the 1.5 miles down the road to Creekside Paradise Bed and Breakfast. This is a beautiful place with the creek running right through the front yard. I believe I’ll have to book a night here come the fall. I was able to arrange a shuttle to Fontana. 

My driver took me over to Fontana Village, knowing I would probably wanting to get something to eat. He pointed out various parts of the Village and dropped me off at the Wildwood Grill. 

I got a burger after scrutinizing the prices. I wanted no more sticker shock. 

The hamburger was great. 

Since the general store was closed I hiked 

down to the convenience store next to the highway, The Pit Stop. 

I picked up a few items for the night but looked over their hikers selection. This is a serious hikers resupply. Flat packs of Chicken, Tuna, and Salmon in all different flavors. A wide assortment of ramen and, I never knew there were so many, just about every conceivable variety of instant mash potatoes. 

I will definitely hit this place before I continue. 

Fontana has a Shuttle that makes regular rounds around the Village, to the Marina, and to the dam. I got them to call for the shuttle at the store and it soon arrived nearly full. It cost only $3. 

Soon I was dropped off at the Dam and pointed towards the Shelter. 

As I walked towards it I passed the restroom with showers. 

Then I arrived at the infamous Fontana Hilton. This shelter can sleep over 20 people easily. It had a fire pit, picnic tables, and bear proof trash receptacles. They even had a solar charging station.   There were concrete pads for tents sites with holes to put one's stakes but they were laid out for a bivy tent. So many would have bigger tents that would cover these holes up. 

I walked into the shelter and claimed my spot. I met Listener, a ratchet jaw that kept his listeners entertained with his, er… “sea stories”. 

First night I slept well. 

5/4 to 5/7 Fontana Hilton

Basically I spent 5 nights at the Fontana Hilton. 

A couple of days was to allow my foot to “heel” and then some bad weather came rolling in. 

On Friday a trail angels came by the shelter with wieners, buns, condiments, Gatorade, chili, charcoal, and a grill.  He even had soap for the showers. That’s when the storm hit. So, here we were, grilling with a storm blowing through the shelter. 

Good times. 

Saturday was a nasty day with more showers coming in that evening. I decided to stay another night. I went to the village but only the lodge had power. I wasn’t able to get a last hamburger nor was I able to charge my solar cell. But I was determined to leave on Sunday. I’ve lollygagged long enough.

One thing about the Smoky Mountain National Park is that one must have a reservation at each campsite and shelter. No “stealth” camping. An AT thru hiker has a carte blanche for the shelters on the trail but those that have a reservation for a particular shelter on a particular night has priority. 

Sunday May 8 (Mother’s Day) Birch Springs Campsite

As promised; I got started early. 

I crossed over the dam

and then hiked up the FSRD to where the AT and the Benton McKaye Trail split. There I dropped off my stub for the park. I was now officially in the Smoky’s

The climb was a steady one and I saw my first mountain laurel in bloom. 

In a little while I came to a spot known as the open ledge. It was a magnificent vista. 

Only a little more and I make the Shuckshack Firetower trail. Here I dropped my pack and climbed to the tower. 

There was the ruins of a cabin there and I had a bit of lunch sitting on that concrete slab. While eating, a fox came to visit. 

After I left the tower I continued on to Birch Spring Campground. It was another one I was able to cowboy in. 

AT 172.3 - 2021 to go

Monday May 9 Mollie Ridge Shelter. 

I was up and rolling by eightish. 

My first climb was to Gregory Bald with an elevation of 4421 ft. About a ½ mile before the summit there was a trio of blowdown trees across the trail. Took me a few moments to get past them. 

(Photo)

I came upon this tree I call the TeePee tree just past Doe Knob. 

(Photo)

I made Ekaneetlee Gap (elev 3803) with only 1.7 miles to go. From here it was a steady climb to Mollie Ridge Shelter (elev 4583) and I was slowing down. Soon I saw the shelter; right on the trail.

(Photo)

I like them like that. 

This shelter slept 12, with water nearby, Bear wire, a toilet field, and the shelter has a chimney. 

(Photo)

I quickly claimed a spot then started up my dinner. Another hiker there who was making his had a flat pack of beef brisket. He said he got it from Ingles in Robbinsville. That’s a game changer. 

AT 177.7  -2015  to go

TUESDAY 5/10 Mollie Ridge Shelter

I awoke to Montezuma’s Revenge and feeling iffy. I watched as the others left but I stayed. Seems as soon as I was ready to head out a squirt came on. 

While waiting around I noticed someone had left a large long sleeve shirt with a button front. Out of curiosity I tried it on. I was able to pull the buttons past the holes. 

I started feeling better in the afternoon but 

By then it was too late to head out. 

WEDNESDAY 5/11 Spence Field Shelters 

I messed up and went to sleep last night with the phone still charging. This morning the solar cell was depleted and the phone was draining. 

We had a bear sighting at 0915.

Coming up the toilet trail.  The other hikers, who were around the firepit,  saw it first and stood up to look.  One of them said, “Hello bear!”   At first I thought they were greeting another hiker.  I was in the shelter and came around to where I could check out what they were looking at.  And there it was.

It turned around and went back the way it came. 

It kind of circled the shelter and that’s how I got a pic of it.

I was on trail by 10:00.  When I mosey thru Devil’s Tater Patch I notice that Ol’ Scratch was going to have a sorry crop this year.

I descended down through Big Abrams Gap and then it was  a steady rise to Russell Field Shelter.   Another one right on the trail.  I had my lunch there.  The wind was cool.

I took a little nap and was back on the trail at about 1400.  I walked through a tunnel of Rhododendron for about a half a mile then I crossed about three minor ridges.  I found the side trail to Spence Field Shelter.  It was about a quarter of a mile down that trail. 

The field had pecans trees.  It took me a moment to recognize them.  This shelter had the standard water source, bear cables and a privy.

We had a hiker there that was deep into “hiker’s hunger”.  He fixed stove top stuffing, mashed potatoes, ramen noodles, chicken and gravy.  

He ate every morsel.

AT 183.7 - 2009 to go

THURSDAY 5/12 Derrick Knob Shelter 

I awoke at dawn and got breakfast made.  I put the solar cell out in the morning sun to get as much of a charge as I could.  During breakfast a doe came and checked us out. 

I left about 1030 to give the solar cell time to change.   I soon made the summit of Rocky Top (m 184.8 miles and elevation of 5422 ft.)  at 1230.  I was greeted with a beautiful vista of 360º.  I decided to have my lunch there and allow the solar cell to charge some more.  While relaxing I was passed by about 3 other hikers.  They were just hurrying through.  I mentioned the view and most of them just swiveled their heads from side to side, getting a quick glance in,  and were gone.   I was tempted to look down the trail where they came from to see what type of hounds from hell were on these hikers' heels.

(video)

Once I left Rocky Top it was less than a mile to Thunderhead Mtn.  When I arrived there was basically no view.  There was a large rock to stand on but the surrounding growth was still taller than I was standing on top.  I headed down to Beechnut Gap and found the water source which was about ¼ down from the trail.  This one had twin pipes

(photo)

I continued on and soon came to climb another peak that wasn’t on my maps nor did anyone seem to know the name of.  I believe it should be christened Mt Samuel L. Jackson.  Because this climb was definitely his favorite catchphrase.  There were a couple of spots where I had to use my hands to get up the slope; it was that steep.

But once I crested I was able to start a much more reasonable descend into Stanley Gap then with a quick jaunt over a small ridge I was at Sugartree Gap.

1.9 miles to the shelter.

And it was a steady climb to 4830 ft.  But I made it right at 1900.

The shelter had a crowd but most were using their tents or hammocks.  There was one hiker there who I found out had the trail name of pirate because:

WARNING: GRAPHIC CONTENT THAT MAY CAUSE UNWANTED MENTAL IMAGERY.

He had dropped his cell phone into a privy hole and had to go “digging” for treasure.

HEY!  That ain’t one of my puns but I have to admire it.

AT 189.8 - 2003 to go

FRIDAY 5/13 Derrick Knob Shelter 

There is rain in the forecast by about 1400.  At Spence Field Shelter I had checked the pack's fly cover only to discover it didn’t have any. R’ut R’ho!

I decided to take a zero day although I’m anxious to get to Gatlinburg.  I sat at the shelter and observed a doe graze in the grass around the shelter.  The doe is aware of me but she was born in the park and knows that humans ain’t a threat to it’s well being; in general.  There was also a chipmunk running around in the shelter.  It too knew I wasn’t going to harm it.  Matter of fact; I had noticed that every one of these Smoky’s shelters seem to have a resident chipmunk. 

My clothes have been getting steadily looser and I’ve been having to pull my belt steadily tighter for quite some time now.  There was a large pullover shirt left behind and out of curiosity I tried it on.  It fits!  My regular shirts were all 3XL.  Seems a new wardrobe is in order.

The rains came in about noon time and I sat and watched. 

(video)

 It  made me sleepy so I took a nap.  When I awoke others had shown up and one was a Ridge Runner named Amelia.  She was a tall woman 5’10” or 11”.  She asked to see my permit and I showed it to her.  She asked me when I arrived since it was still early and I told her it was last night.  I explained that I didn’t have a cover for my pack and I didn’t want to get the contents wet.  She was sympathetic but cautioned me not to admit I stayed an extra night in any shelter to an actual Ranger.  She said they can be a bit on the prickish side.  She also had an industrial grade garbage bag and let me have it to put in my pack and put my stuff inside it.  I have noticed that several of the other hikers at various other shelters were using that hack.  I was very appreciative.  

The shelter started to get crowded again with hikers towards evening but Amelia was able to check all permits and help coordinate.  She told us that since the toilet field was getting a little punky that it would be better if we went about a ¼ mile north or south on the trail to dig our catholes.  

Someone asked her about the state lines and she said that for the most part the trail was the state line.  Most of the shelters were on the Tennessee side and most of the privy and toilet fields were on the North Carolina side.

Sleep in Tennessee and crap in North Carolina; make of it what you will. 

SATURDAY 5/14 Double Spring Gap Shelter 

Feeling great and raring to go I got an early start.  I said my goodbyes to Amilia, thanked her again for the trash bag, and off I went.  I turned the phone off to save the battery since there wasn’t much sun to charge the solar cell.  I made Silers Bald Shelter (195.5 mm / 5455 elevation) by 1330.  I stopped for lunch, and it started to rain as soon as I stepped in.

Looking the shelter over; compared to all the other Smoky Mtn Shelters this one is a little shabby.   Double Spring Gap Shelter was only 1.7 mile away.  When the rain stopped I made a dash for it.  This part of the hike was great with some great views and very easy grade.  Coming upon the shelter I started to see Douglas Fir trees and the down trees had green moss on them.  The Smoky Mountains is suppose to be on the borderline of being a tropical rainforest.  This area showed me why.

(Photo)

I made Double Spring Gap Shelter around 17:00.  I started making my dinner which wasn’t going to be much since the two extra days out had cut into my supplies.  Dinner was going to be a spam burrito and mashed potatoes but a camper at this shelter came up and offered us some fresh venison sausage.  I jumped on it.

I boiled the sausage with black pepper then made my mashed potatoes with the broth.  I dined on that and washed it down with the leftover broth.

Ambrosia

I was actually full.  A sensation I usually don’t feel unless I’m in town.

Now I’ll have a spam burrito for breakfast.

AT 197.2 - 1996 to go

SUNDAY 5/15 Clingmans Dome

In the morning while waiting for the others to finish up and leave I started chatting with a pair of hikers, Jason and Stephanie; they were siblings.  Jason lived in Orlando Florida and Stephanie in one of the Boroughs of New York City.  Stehpanie had said something about how much she liked Helen and the little creek that ran through the town and I corrected her by telling her that it was the Chattahoochee River. And she told me that compared to the East River, it was a creek.  And I mention how when I was west of the Mississippi River I was bad about mistaking those rivers for creeks.

Come to find out Stephanie was very familiar with Griffin Ga.  A good friend of hers is the Assistance DA for Spalding Co.  She also knew where Newnan was.  

They were just up here hiking the Smoky’s and had a car parked at Newfound Gap.  They were getting off at Clingmans Dome.

We left the shelter by 0900.  They quickly pulled away from me and gained ground.

I met another couple who were day hiking and we chatted a bit.  I mentioned I had stayed the night before at the shelter and was going to get off at Clingmans Dome to get to town to resupply because I had eaten my last spam burrito that morning.  They started to offer me some of what they had in their pack but I stopped them and told them I wasn’t trying to Yogi them.  I was fine and can soon be in a town to resupply.  Also I could pick up a bite at the center at Clingmans Dome.  We all wished each other well then I was on my way.

The climb was steep but not MF steep like so many of the others. 

I made the bypass trail and descended down it. 6/10 of a  miles and I was in the parking area.   I went to the welcome center  and found out that all they had was sovereign, trail mix, and bottle water. This place has no electricity except for solar panels and a generator, just enough for some lights and running their computer/register.

I ended up with a trail mix. 

I got to talking to one of the volunteers, a Michael Dunlap, and was asking about shuttle services from Newfound Gap.  He assured me no such critter existed.  Seemed that was trail hearsay.  But he offered to be a trail Angel and take me into town when his shift ended.  I waited around and since the sun was good allowed my solar cell to charge and my phone along with it.  My phone had gotten down to 1%.

I got a weak signal and by using the Priceline app I got a booking on a Days Inn in Gatlinburg at $45 a night.  I jumped on it.

I told Michael about the booking but he only knew where the NOC was in Gatlinburg and not the Days Inn.  After his shift we loaded up and it was a beautiful drive to Gatlinburg.  We got to the first red light right at the edge of town and there was the NOC.  I looked up and catty cornered to the NOC, across the street was the Days Inn.  

I was dropped off and checked in.  First thing was getting a shower.  I allowed the tub to fill up with the shower water to better allow my feed to soak.  The water was black by the time I finished.  But my feet were clean.

I enquired about laundry at the front desk and was told it was about two mile out.  There was a trolley that would take me and they pointed out where it would stop across the street.  But the laundromat was already closed for the night so I would have to get it first thing in the morning.

The last time I was in Gatlinburg was in the mid-90’s.  I strolled around town and recognized nothing.  The town has changed since then.  I stopped at the Shoney’s and got a burger.  On the way back to the hotel I ran into Quip and Halfchop, two characters from the Fontana Hilton.  They had gone to Trail Days in Damascus Va.  Quip had won an Ultralight Backpack while there.  It was only 40 ltr and they were going back to their hotel on the other side of town to pack then leave in the morning after mailing his excess home.  They asked where I was staying and I told them and told them how much I was paying.  They told me they were paying twice that much.

Soon I was back at the hotel and having a good night's sleep.

AT 200.0 - 1993 to go