MONDAY 5/16 to Tuesday 5/17 Gatlinburg TN
After succulently dining on that wonderful continental breakfast the hotel provided I strolled across the street to the NOC and picked up a few supplies. I broke down and bought a Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter, a battery backup to cover the solar charger I have when I don’t have time to allow it to sit in the sun (or I screw up and allow it to deplete), and DEET. I priced a few other items too but I didn’t want to take the time to second mortgage my home to pay for them.
I dropped that (crap) at the hotel and since the grocery store was within three miles I decided to mosey out that way.
This allowed me to see a good bit of Gatlinburg. The last time I had been in Gatlinburg was the mid-ninety. Nothing was looking familiar except the terminal for the lift to Ober-Gatlinburg. But even that looked different. Back then you got a ticket, took a ride up, walked around, paid for what you wanted to do, then come back down. Now it costs about $20 to go up and that includes any activity. It’s listed as an amusement park.
The town itself was looking like an amusement park.
But soon I broke away from the “urban” area of town and walked the “suburban” area out to the Supermarket.
Of course I went hogwild in there.
Thruhikers and stoners should not be allowed in a grocery store unaccompanied.
But I can say, since one of my purchases was a reusable shopping bag, that I was able to put everything in that one bag.
I caught the trolley back to the hotel
As I got back to the hotel I tried to get into my room. The key wasn’t working. I sat my bag down by the door and went to the front desk to get my key reprogrammed. I returned and the bag was gone. After looking around to see if anyone was carrying it I started to return to the front desk to see if the security cameras picked up anything. When I started down the steps from the second floor I spied my bag on the first floor beside the door for the room directly under me. I was in room 224 and the bag was beside room 124. I had put my Do Not Disturb sign out on my door and this one also had a Do Not Disturb sign too. I need a keeper.
The rest of the night was uneventful.
The next morning after I dined again on the ambrosia known as a continental breakfast, complimentary of the hotel, I caught the trolley out to the laundromat. God my laundry done and while waiting on the spin cycle I filled out a few postcards to mail.
I rode back into town. The trolley's central terminal was next to Ripley's Aquarium (Ripley has so many different outlets here that I can see the town being renamed “Ripleysville” in the future.) To get out to the “suburban” area of town one has to catch two trolleys. One trolley does basically “urban” while the other trolley does “suburban”. Instead of waiting on the urban trolley I walked a back street to the hotel. This street had a creek that ran beside it and things were looking familiar. Once back at the hotel I talked to the clerk and he confirmed that that used to be the main drag, the one I remember from the nineties. They move the main drag over a street so they could get more businesses (tourists traps) on both sides of the street.
Mystery solved.
The afternoon was spent riding around on the free trolley, eating chicken and throwing the bones out the window. It’s a good way to see the area but these trolley drivers aren’t too keen on them bones flying out the window.
That evening I packed the pack with the extra food. And surprise, surprise; it’s not as heavy as I feared. I’m taking couscous along to try and see how well it does in the wild and if so then it’ll be my new staple and I won’t need ramen.
Time to hit the trail in the morning.
WEDNESDAY 5/18 Ice Water Shelter
Awoke at 0500 and finished readying my pack then dined succulently on the hotel's breakfast (yep, he's been out too long when he calls that microwaved groceries down the throat "dining").
At 0900 I tried to get an Uber. Driver from Dollywood picked up. 10 min later the Driver cancelled. No one else picked up. I called a backup with Angel's Taxi; they wanted $100 dollars for 15 miles. Nope!
Then I called the Benz Taxi and they wanted $95. I'm sure it would have been a luxurious ride but; Nope!
And I used Farout App to called A Walk Through The Woods and they wanted $75 that was good for up to five passengers. I didn't know of 4 others that needed to go so that also was a nope. Although it was more of a temporary one if I don't find anyone else.
But I remember that someone had told me that NOC had a list of Shuttle Drivers. I walked over and left my pack at the door. The clerks were very nice and gave me a list of drivers and even gave recommendations of who was the most reliable. One of the drivers was putting in a bathroom for hikers at a hostel she was starting up and couldn't come but a Mike Kesselring did pick up. He wanted only $40 and he was willing to split that with multiple riders. I told him to come on down. He was prompt about getting there and even called me while in route to see if I minded sharing with another hiker that had given him a call the other day. I was game except that second rider was no where to be found. O'well, his lost.
I was picked up at 12:30 at NOC and Mike was an older retired gentleman that was basically making pocket money and staying out of his wife's hair. Ol' Mike was also a Trekker and was very impressed that I had served on the Enterprise. We had a pleasant conversation from Gatlinburg to New Found Gap about the Science Fiction phenomenon and also the reality of the aircraft carriers. He dropped me off by 13:00
I looked around Newfound Gap for a bit. It was a pretty busy spot at the moment. I last saw Mike loading up a couple of more hikers to take back to Gatlinburg.
I had a steady up hill climb from the gap. Sadly, most of the leaves were out and so the views were overgrown. It didn't take me long to pass Sweat Heifer Creek Trail then a few more to Boulevard Trail. Finally I came up upon a privy not to far off the trail and I knew that Icewater Spring Shelter was just ahead.
My adobe for the night. I slept on the top shelf since the bottom had a low ceiling that I could only belly crawl to get in.
AT 210.8- 1982 to go
THURSDAY 5/19 Peck's Corner Shelter
The next morning I laid in my bag and peeked out at the scurrying activities of the other hikers readying themselves for the upcoming day. I decided that one wrong step and I could get run over so I stayed where it was safe until the others have left (boy that's a pitiful excuse to cover up you were just being plain lazy). I was soon ready to leave myself but I noticed that someone's pack was still laying on the floor of the shelter; like it had been thrown over there where it laid. I went over and picked it up and it was an Osprey 48 (not a cheep pack) and full of gear. I was way too over loaded as it was and I fought the temptation to be nosy and peek inside. I dropped it and headed out.
It wasn't too long before I made the cutoff for Charlie Bunion. I dropped pack at the trail intersection and traveled the short 1/4 mile down to a spectacular view of the surrounding area. There was a couple there that I talked to for a bit, got pictures, then learned that the side trail looped back to the AT. There was no need for me to drop my pack.
O'Well!
I soon passed Dry Sluice Gap Trail then crested Laurel Top. Nothing to see on Laurel Top except the laurels and they weren't in bloom.
I turned down Hughes Ridge Trail to make the shelter at Peak's Corner Shelter. That trail was very rutted out. 1/2 miles to shelter and the shelter was down from the trail. The water source was farther down still. This area was very hilly and there were only a few flatish spot to pitch a tent. The privy was on the other side of the trail from the shelter. That kept a ridge between us and what was starting to become a delectable bouquet (he's been out too long; it smelled like crap).
We had a Ridge Runner there: Cap’n Caveman male BKA (l) with a prosthetic that allowed him to move normally. If he wasn’t wearing shorts then I wouldn’t have known about the prosthetic.
I talked to him about abandon pack at Icewater Spring Shelter and he wonder if someone who was day hiking just left their pack there. I told him that if it's still there when he got there then probably it was abandoned.
I reflected on the day and realize that only two thruhikers passed me today and only one yesterday. The bubble has passed.
AT 218.2 - 1975 to go
FRIDAY 5/20 Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
I got out on the trail quickly in the morning. The next shelter was 5 3/4 miles away so it made for a short day. I had a steady climb at first but made the shelter about 1300. Only two others at the shelter and one of them was hammock camping. The water source was right outside of the shelter but the stream was trying to spread out and it made the front of the shelter a bit of a bog. That had to be crossed to get to the bear cables or the privy. I napped and then hung out with the other two. We shot the crap until hikers midnight. The other hiker that was staying in the shelter with me had packed in liquor. The hammock camper partook but I declined. We gabbled until hiker's midnight then we went to bed.
AT 223.4 - 1970 to go
SATURDAY 5/21 Crosby Knob Shelter
I was on the trail by 0930. Nobody around so I took my dear sweet time.
I passed Mt. Gayot Trail junction then I came upon the helicopter pad which was in an open area with a couple of concrete strips that the pilot was to land on. I took a pack break at about 1040 for 10 minutes.
Started heading down and passed the spot where a plane had crashed years ago. There was nothing to see; move along. At the Junction of Snake Den Ridge trail I took another pack break for about 20 minutes. This was at 12:30 and I basically had lunch.
After a third pack break I made Crosby Knob Shelter by 1530. As I stepped into the shelter it started to rain. Great timing.
Wha-hoo-he (owl) showed up wearing a kilt he picked up in Gatlinburg. He wasn't wearing it right but I kept my mouth shut.
For dinner I tried the couscous with salmon. It was great and the couscous cooks almost instantly. Just got to make sure I don't use too much couscous.
After the rain a group came through that was doing some sort of running. Two others were with them with the food. After the runners were fed the two others were giving away their leftovers. I got a coke and some bacon that I added to the couscous. Pretty tasty.
The shelter was awfully full tonight. Another hiker was there and he was getting a signal on his phone of three bars. I had no service. I asked him what service he had and it was T-Mobile. I have T-Mobile. We compared and we both had the exact same plans. The only different was that he had that behemoth iPhone 13. That was all I needed to hear. I am definitely getting an iPhone SE as soon as I can.
I’m going to try and make standing bear farm tomorrow 10.4 miles.
AT 231.1 - 1962 to go
SUNDAY 5/22 Davenport Gap
It took the great hoard at the shelter a while to leave but I was able to get out by 0845.
I first had a 3/4 mile descend to Low Gap Trail then a two mile ascend up to the Mt Cammerer trail intersection. I dropped pack at the intersection and hid it back in the trees.
I had a little over a 1/2 mile to the fire tower. The trail got progressively more difficult as I went on. But I made it and even was able to get to the observation deck. I had my lunch there. I also was able to get a small signal on my phone.
I returned and gather my gear up and continued down towards Davenport Gap. From here it was all down hill. 3/4 of a mile down it started to rain.
No where to take shelter. I figured it would be a short shower like what I've seen so far.
Nope, it rained, and rained, and rained.
Did I mention it rained?
Well, in case I didn't; it rained.
I walked 3.4 miles down hill to the shelter in the rain. The trail was like its own river and try as I might I had to actually walk in it from time to time. I thought my feet were gonna be torn up from the debris floating in the water and getting into my sandals but they held up. The soles of my feet definitely have toughened. I learned to turn from time to time and face upstream and the sandals would get washed out.
I got mad. My anger kept me focus. I didn’t rest any, (no where to rest in the rain) and I used a step count to keep me going. Finally the rain stopped.
And I got sight of the shelter.
As I got to the shelter I saw the chain link fence across the front and I said “nope!” There was something about being in a shelter and the possibility of being locked in and imprisoned.
But there were three others there and they were drying out; two women and a man. I was able to change my wet clothes to my dry ones and not expose anyone in the shelter. Between using my sleeping bag to keep myself covered and the other keeping their heads turned towards the far wall I was able to keep from offending their modesty.
I continued to Davenport Gap which was only 3/4 miles away. I arrived and set on one of the large stones there. A couple of hikers came down after me and they were going father down the road to pick up their vehicle but they offered to come back and give me a ride. As I was waiting for their return it started to rain again. The angels showed up and I loaded my gear up hurriedly. They took me to Standing Bear Farm.
It started to rain again
Trail angels picked me up and took me to Standing Bear Farm. Halfchop was there but Quip had moved on. Wha-hoo-he (owl) was there, and Buttercup from Mollie Ridge. Cloud Walker with Trooper was there. A hiker I chatted with at Crosby Knob Shelter was there.
Place was like a hippy commune. There were ports potties and a privy, the port potties were in bad need to be empty. They also had a couple of showers; one had a pan head while the other shower was open to the outside at the bottom.
There is a kitchen, laundry room with a wash sink and scrub board. A centrifuge to wring out clothes and a dryer. The commissary mostly had items from a discount outlet.
I bought a faux Pringle can and the chips were stale. I ate a can of sardines with the chips. They used the honor system and everyone carried a mini clipboard around to write down purchases. They even had a work for stay system going on.
And there was a fair amount of drug abuse going on.
While in bed I found the Econo lodge in Newport TN with reasonable rates.
I’ll move my operations there on the morrow.
AT 238.9 - 1954 to go
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