The Smoky Mountain part deux

(revised)

 MONDAY 5/16 to Tuesday 5/17 Gatlinburg TN

After succulently dining on that wonderful continental breakfast the hotel provided I strolled across the street to the NOC and picked up a few supplies. I broke down and bought a Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter, a battery backup to cover the solar charger I have when I don’t have time to allow it to sit in the sun (or I screw up and allow it to deplete), and DEET. I priced a few other items too but I didn’t want to take the time to second mortgage my home to pay for them. 

I dropped that (crap) at the hotel and since the grocery store was within three miles I decided to mosey out that way. 

This allowed me to see a good bit of Gatlinburg. The last time I had been in Gatlinburg was the mid-ninety. Nothing was looking familiar except the terminal for the lift to Ober-Gatlinburg. But even that looked different. Back then you got a ticket, took a ride up, walked around, paid for what you wanted to do, then come back down. Now it costs about $20 to go up and that includes any activity. It’s listed as an amusement park. 

The town itself was looking like an amusement park. 

But soon I broke away from the “urban” area of town and walked the “suburban” area out to the Supermarket. 

Of course I went hogwild in there. 

Thruhikers and stoners should not be allowed in a grocery store unaccompanied. 

But I can say, since one of my purchases was a reusable shopping bag, that I was able to put everything in that one bag. 

I caught the trolley back to the hotel 

As I got back to the hotel I tried to get into my room. The key wasn’t working. I sat my bag down by the door and went to the front desk to get my key reprogrammed. I returned and the bag was gone. After looking around to see if anyone was carrying it I started to return to the front desk to see if the security cameras picked up anything. When I started down the steps from the second floor I spied my bag on the first floor beside the door for the room directly under me. I was in room 224 and the bag was beside room 124. I had put my Do Not Disturb sign out on my door and this one also had a Do Not Disturb sign too. I need a keeper. 

The rest of the night was uneventful. 

The next morning after I dined again on the ambrosia known as a continental breakfast, complimentary of the hotel, I caught the trolley out to the laundromat. God my laundry done and while waiting on the spin cycle I filled out a few postcards to mail. 

I rode back into town. The trolley's central terminal was next to Ripley's Aquarium (Ripley has so many different outlets here that I can see the town being renamed “Ripleysville” in the future.)  To get out to the “suburban” area of town one has to catch two trolleys. One trolley does basically “urban” while the other trolley does “suburban”. Instead of waiting on the urban trolley I walked a back street to the hotel. This street had a creek that ran beside it and things were looking familiar. Once back at the hotel I talked to the clerk and he confirmed that that used to be the main drag, the one I remember from the nineties. They move the main drag over a street so they could get more businesses (tourists traps) on both sides of the street. 

Mystery solved. 

The afternoon was spent riding around on the free trolley, eating chicken and throwing the bones out the window.  It’s a good way to see the area but these trolley drivers aren’t too keen on them bones flying out the window. 

That evening I packed the pack with the extra food. And surprise, surprise; it’s not as heavy as I feared. I’m taking couscous along to try and see how well it does in the wild and if so then it’ll be my new staple and I won’t need ramen. 

Time to hit the trail in the morning.

WEDNESDAY    5/18 Ice Water Shelter

Awoke at 0500 and finished readying my pack then dined succulently on the hotel's breakfast (yep, he's been out too long when he calls that microwaved groceries down the throat "dining").

At 0900 I tried to get an Uber. Driver from Dollywood picked up. 10 min later the Driver cancelled. No one else picked up. I called a backup with Angel's Taxi; they wanted $100 dollars for 15 miles. Nope!

Then I called the Benz Taxi and they wanted $95. I'm sure it would have been a luxurious ride but; Nope!

And I used Farout App to called A Walk Through The Woods and they wanted $75 that was good for up to five passengers. I didn't know of 4 others that needed to go so that also was a nope. Although it was more of a temporary one  if I don't find anyone else.

But I remember that someone had told me that NOC had a list of Shuttle Drivers. I walked over and left my pack at the door. The clerks were very nice and gave me a list of drivers and even gave recommendations of who was the most reliable. One of the drivers was putting in a bathroom for hikers at a hostel she was starting up and couldn't come but a Mike Kesselring did pick up. He wanted only $40 and he was willing to split that with multiple riders. I told him to come on down. He was prompt about getting there and even called me while in route to see if I minded sharing with another hiker that had given him a call the other day. I was game except that second rider was no where to be found. O'well, his lost.

I was picked up at 12:30 at NOC and Mike was an older retired gentleman that was basically making pocket money and staying out of his wife's hair. Ol' Mike was also a Trekker and was very impressed that I had served on the Enterprise. We had a pleasant conversation from Gatlinburg to New Found Gap about the Science Fiction phenomenon and also the reality of the aircraft carriers. He dropped me off by 13:00

I looked around Newfound Gap for a bit. It was a pretty busy spot at the moment. I last saw Mike loading up a couple of more hikers to take back to Gatlinburg.

I had a steady up hill climb from the gap. Sadly, most of the leaves were out and so the views were overgrown. It didn't take me long to pass Sweat Heifer Creek Trail then a few more to Boulevard Trail. Finally I came up upon a privy not to far off the trail and I knew that Icewater Spring Shelter was just ahead.

My adobe for the night. I slept on the top shelf since the bottom had a low ceiling that I could only belly crawl to get in.

AT 210.8-  1982 to go

THURSDAY    5/19 Peck's Corner Shelter

The next morning I laid in my bag and peeked out at the scurrying activities of the other hikers readying themselves for the upcoming day. I decided that one wrong step and I could get run over so I stayed where it was safe until the others have left (boy that's a pitiful excuse to cover up you were just being plain lazy). I was soon ready to leave myself but I noticed that someone's pack was still laying on the floor of the shelter; like it had been thrown over there where it laid. I went over and picked it up and it was an Osprey 48 (not a cheep pack) and full of gear. I was way too over loaded as it was and I fought the temptation to be nosy and peek inside. I dropped it and headed out.

It wasn't too long before I made the cutoff for Charlie Bunion. I dropped pack at the trail intersection and traveled the short 1/4 mile down to a spectacular view of the surrounding area.  There was a couple there that I talked to for a bit, got pictures, then learned that the side trail looped back to the AT. There was no need for me to drop my pack.

O'Well!

I soon passed Dry Sluice Gap Trail then crested Laurel Top. Nothing to see on Laurel Top except the laurels and they weren't in bloom. 

I turned down Hughes Ridge Trail to make the shelter at Peak's Corner Shelter. That trail was very rutted out. 1/2 miles to shelter and the shelter was down from the trail. The water source was farther down still. This area was very hilly and there were only a few flatish spot to pitch a tent. The privy was on the other side of the trail from the shelter. That kept a ridge between us and what was starting to become a delectable bouquet (he's been out too long; it smelled like crap).

We had a Ridge Runner there: Cap’n Caveman male BKA (l) with a prosthetic that allowed him to move normally. If he wasn’t wearing shorts then I wouldn’t have known about the prosthetic. 

I talked to him about abandon pack at Icewater Spring Shelter and he wonder if someone who was day hiking just left their pack there. I told him that if it's still there when he got there then probably it was abandoned.

I reflected on the day and realize that only two thruhikers passed me today and only one yesterday. The bubble has passed. 

AT 218.2 - 1975 to go

FRIDAY    5/20 Tri-Corner Knob Shelter

I got out on the trail quickly in the morning. The next shelter was 5 3/4 miles away so it made for a short day. I had a steady climb at first but made the shelter about 1300. Only two others at the shelter and one of them was hammock camping. The water source was right outside of the shelter but the stream was trying to spread out and it made the front of the shelter a bit of a bog. That had to be crossed to get to the bear cables or the privy. I napped and then hung out with the other two. We shot the crap until hikers midnight. The other hiker that was staying in the shelter with me had packed in liquor. The hammock camper partook but I declined. We gabbled until hiker's midnight then we went to bed.

AT 223.4 - 1970 to go

SATURDAY 5/21    Crosby Knob Shelter

I was on the trail by 0930. Nobody around so I took my dear sweet time.

I passed Mt. Gayot Trail junction then I came upon the helicopter pad which was in an open area with a couple of concrete strips that the pilot was to land on. I took a pack break at about 1040 for 10 minutes.

Started heading down and passed the spot where a plane had crashed years ago. There was nothing to see; move along. At the Junction of Snake Den Ridge trail I took another pack break for about 20 minutes. This was at 12:30 and I basically had lunch.

After a third pack break I made Crosby Knob Shelter by 1530. As I stepped into the shelter it started to rain. Great timing.

Wha-hoo-he (owl) showed up wearing a kilt he picked up in Gatlinburg. He wasn't wearing it right but I kept my mouth shut.

For dinner I tried the couscous with salmon. It was great and the couscous cooks almost instantly. Just got to make sure I don't use too much couscous.

After the rain a group came through that was doing some sort of running. Two others were with them with the food. After the runners were fed the two others were giving away their leftovers. I got a coke and some bacon that I added to the couscous. Pretty tasty.

The shelter was awfully full tonight. Another hiker was there and he was getting a signal on his phone of three bars. I had no service. I asked him what service he had and it was T-Mobile. I have T-Mobile. We compared and we both had the exact same plans. The only different was that he had that behemoth iPhone 13. That was all I needed to hear. I am definitely getting an iPhone SE as soon as I can.

I’m going to try and make standing bear farm tomorrow 10.4 miles. 

AT 231.1  - 1962 to go

SUNDAY    5/22 Davenport Gap

It took the great hoard at the shelter a while to leave but I was able to get out by 0845.

I first had a 3/4 mile descend to Low Gap Trail then a two mile ascend up to the Mt Cammerer trail intersection. I dropped pack at the intersection and hid it back in the trees.

I had a little over a 1/2 mile to the fire tower. The trail got progressively more difficult as I went on. But I made it and even was able to get to the observation deck. I had my lunch there. I also was able to get a small signal on my phone.

I returned and gather my gear up and continued down towards Davenport Gap. From here it was all down hill. 3/4 of a mile down it started to rain.

No where to take shelter. I figured it would be a short shower like what I've seen so far.

Nope, it rained, and rained, and rained.

Did I mention it rained?

Well, in case I didn't; it rained.  

I walked 3.4 miles down hill to the shelter in the rain. The trail was like its own river and try as I might I had to actually walk in it from time to time. I thought my feet were gonna be torn up from the debris floating in the water and getting into my sandals but they held up. The soles of my feet definitely have toughened. I learned to turn from time to time and face upstream and the sandals would get washed out.

I got mad. My anger kept me focus. I didn’t rest any, (no where to rest in the rain) and I used a step count to keep me going. Finally the rain stopped.

And I got sight of the shelter.

As I got to the shelter I saw the chain link fence across the front and I said “nope!” There was something about being in a shelter and the possibility of being locked in and imprisoned.

But there were three others there and they were drying out; two women and a man. I was able to change my wet clothes to my dry ones and not expose anyone in the shelter. Between using my sleeping bag to keep myself covered and the other keeping their heads turned towards the far wall I was able to keep from offending their modesty.

I continued to Davenport Gap which was only 3/4 miles away. I arrived and set on one of the large stones there. A couple of hikers came down after me and they were going father down the road to pick up their vehicle but they offered to come back and give me a ride. As I was waiting for their return it started to rain again. The angels showed up and I loaded my gear up hurriedly. They took me to Standing Bear Farm. 

It started to rain again 

Trail angels picked me up and took me to Standing Bear Farm. Halfchop was there but Quip had moved on. Wha-hoo-he (owl) was there, and Buttercup from Mollie Ridge. Cloud Walker with Trooper was there. A hiker I chatted with at Crosby Knob Shelter was there. 

Place was like a hippy commune. There were ports potties and a privy, the port potties were in bad need to be empty. They also had a couple of showers; one had a pan head while the other shower was open to the outside at the bottom.

There is a kitchen, laundry room with a wash sink and scrub board. A centrifuge to wring out clothes and a dryer. The commissary mostly had items from a discount outlet. 

I bought a faux Pringle can and the chips were stale. I ate a can of sardines with the chips. They used the honor system and everyone carried a mini clipboard around to write down purchases. They even had a work for stay system going on.

And there was a fair amount of drug abuse going on.

 While in bed I found the Econo lodge in Newport TN with reasonable rates.  

I’ll move my operations there on the morrow. 

AT 238.9 - 1954 to go

Hot Spring North Carolina

 I've made it to Hot Spring yesterday.  That was 34 miles in 4 days.  That journey is going to be treated in another post.  

I'm really having problems trying to update this blog.  Trying to use the blog itself on the phone is not a stable situation.  I use Google Docs but then Blogger doesn't seem to want to accept anything I paste to it, especially if there are pictures involve.  In future post you may see a 

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This will be where I put a photo in when I can get into a library and "pretty" up these post.

A lot of times my post may look more like an outline.  Here again, it due to the difficulty of trying to use a mobile device to update Blogger.  There are apps for Blogger but I'm not impressed that they make the blogging experience any easier.

But I made it 275 miles in 73 days, not the fastest but not the slowest either.  Soon I'll cross the French Broad River and be consider to be more into Tennessee, although the trail will still follow the state lines.  That'll be something I'll have to put up with until I cross into Virginia.

(I've learned how to selectively upload photos to Google Photos so it's on now.)

Some Step Makers Need To Return To School To Relearn Their Craft.

(revised)

4/30 to 5/1 Stecoah Gap NC

I spent these two day resupplying in Robbinsville and watching old Westerns at the Hostel. 

Monday 5/2 Cody Gap

After being dropped off at the Gap I started hiking to Sweetwater Gap. That was an easy climb but then came the climb up Jacob’s Ladder; all 647 feet of it in ½ miles. I owe a sincere apology to Wildcat Mtn. 

I started to get mad at it. That “madness” kept me focused on climbing. Jacob’s Ladder is a triple Summit.  As soon as I crested one summit and thought I was going to descend then I would start climbing again to the second, then the third. I was a good ways descending after the third summit before I realized that there wasn’t a fourth. 

As I made Brown Fork Gap I went to the shelter for lunch and a nap. There I met Turbo.

Turbo was a small man with an above elbow amputated left arm. Scrappy fellow. We talked for a bit then he headed out. I ate then took a short nap. 

As you can see there was a strange gap between the platform and whatever that was that the pillars rested on. 

After my nap I continued on. 

I soon got to a place where I could see Santeetlah Lake. 

I passed Hogback Gap and then hiked thru a rock garden. Over another rise and then I came to Cody Gap. There were five others camping there. 

I broke the hammock out and set it up. Then I dumped all my gear into it and then got water. Cooked my dinner of tuna and ramen and dined rustically. 

I cowboyed and some of the others had a surprise look that I wasn’t going to sleep in the hammock but with no under quilting it would have been still too cool. 

Tuesday 5/3 Fontana Dam Shelter

I was up by dawn but the others were already packed and moving out. 

After breakfast of oatmeal I was packed and on the move. 

It didn’t take me long to reach Yellow Creek Gap, at least not long by my standards. I made it by noon. Yellow Creek Gap has Yellow Creek Rd running through it. I had to come down those homemade trail steps to reach the gap and one step was a little over twice the depth of a standard step. I didn’t realize that until I was in space. I landed hard. 

There was a stone that my left foot landed on about the right size to give me a stone bruise just in front of the heel in the arch. 

Ouch! 

I went down the rest of the stairs very gingerly. 

I was in serious doubt I would make the next shelter much less Fontana Dam with my heel feeling like this and I didn’t want to spend the night in the rain. My app showed that there was a hostel in the area but with T-Mobile I wasn’t getting a signal. I used the GPS on this app and hobbled the 1.5 miles down the road to Creekside Paradise Bed and Breakfast. This is a beautiful place with the creek running right through the front yard. I believe I’ll have to book a night here come the fall. I was able to arrange a shuttle to Fontana. 

My driver took me over to Fontana Village, knowing I would probably wanting to get something to eat. He pointed out various parts of the Village and dropped me off at the Wildwood Grill. 

I got a burger after scrutinizing the prices. I wanted no more sticker shock. 

The hamburger was great. 

Since the general store was closed I hiked 

down to the convenience store next to the highway, The Pit Stop. 

I picked up a few items for the night but looked over their hikers selection. This is a serious hikers resupply. Flat packs of Chicken, Tuna, and Salmon in all different flavors. A wide assortment of ramen and, I never knew there were so many, just about every conceivable variety of instant mash potatoes. 

I will definitely hit this place before I continue. 

Fontana has a Shuttle that makes regular rounds around the Village, to the Marina, and to the dam. I got them to call for the shuttle at the store and it soon arrived nearly full. It cost only $3. 

Soon I was dropped off at the Dam and pointed towards the Shelter. 

As I walked towards it I passed the restroom with showers. 

Then I arrived at the infamous Fontana Hilton. This shelter can sleep over 20 people easily. It had a fire pit, picnic tables, and bear proof trash receptacles. They even had a solar charging station.   There were concrete pads for tents sites with holes to put one's stakes but they were laid out for a bivy tent. So many would have bigger tents that would cover these holes up. 

I walked into the shelter and claimed my spot. I met Listener, a ratchet jaw that kept his listeners entertained with his, er… “sea stories”. 

First night I slept well. 

5/4 to 5/7 Fontana Hilton

Basically I spent 5 nights at the Fontana Hilton. 

A couple of days was to allow my foot to “heel” and then some bad weather came rolling in. 

On Friday a trail angels came by the shelter with wieners, buns, condiments, Gatorade, chili, charcoal, and a grill.  He even had soap for the showers. That’s when the storm hit. So, here we were, grilling with a storm blowing through the shelter. 

Good times. 

Saturday was a nasty day with more showers coming in that evening. I decided to stay another night. I went to the village but only the lodge had power. I wasn’t able to get a last hamburger nor was I able to charge my solar cell. But I was determined to leave on Sunday. I’ve lollygagged long enough.

One thing about the Smoky Mountain National Park is that one must have a reservation at each campsite and shelter. No “stealth” camping. An AT thru hiker has a carte blanche for the shelters on the trail but those that have a reservation for a particular shelter on a particular night has priority. 

Sunday May 8 (Mother’s Day) Birch Springs Campsite

As promised; I got started early. 

I crossed over the dam

and then hiked up the FSRD to where the AT and the Benton McKaye Trail split. There I dropped off my stub for the park. I was now officially in the Smoky’s

The climb was a steady one and I saw my first mountain laurel in bloom. 

In a little while I came to a spot known as the open ledge. It was a magnificent vista. 

Only a little more and I make the Shuckshack Firetower trail. Here I dropped my pack and climbed to the tower. 

There was the ruins of a cabin there and I had a bit of lunch sitting on that concrete slab. While eating, a fox came to visit. 

After I left the tower I continued on to Birch Spring Campground. It was another one I was able to cowboy in. 

AT 172.3 - 2021 to go

Monday May 9 Mollie Ridge Shelter. 

I was up and rolling by eightish. 

My first climb was to Gregory Bald with an elevation of 4421 ft. About a ½ mile before the summit there was a trio of blowdown trees across the trail. Took me a few moments to get past them. 

(Photo)

I came upon this tree I call the TeePee tree just past Doe Knob. 

(Photo)

I made Ekaneetlee Gap (elev 3803) with only 1.7 miles to go. From here it was a steady climb to Mollie Ridge Shelter (elev 4583) and I was slowing down. Soon I saw the shelter; right on the trail.

(Photo)

I like them like that. 

This shelter slept 12, with water nearby, Bear wire, a toilet field, and the shelter has a chimney. 

(Photo)

I quickly claimed a spot then started up my dinner. Another hiker there who was making his had a flat pack of beef brisket. He said he got it from Ingles in Robbinsville. That’s a game changer. 

AT 177.7  -2015  to go

TUESDAY 5/10 Mollie Ridge Shelter

I awoke to Montezuma’s Revenge and feeling iffy. I watched as the others left but I stayed. Seems as soon as I was ready to head out a squirt came on. 

While waiting around I noticed someone had left a large long sleeve shirt with a button front. Out of curiosity I tried it on. I was able to pull the buttons past the holes. 

I started feeling better in the afternoon but 

By then it was too late to head out. 

WEDNESDAY 5/11 Spence Field Shelters 

I messed up and went to sleep last night with the phone still charging. This morning the solar cell was depleted and the phone was draining. 

We had a bear sighting at 0915.

Coming up the toilet trail.  The other hikers, who were around the firepit,  saw it first and stood up to look.  One of them said, “Hello bear!”   At first I thought they were greeting another hiker.  I was in the shelter and came around to where I could check out what they were looking at.  And there it was.

It turned around and went back the way it came. 

It kind of circled the shelter and that’s how I got a pic of it.

I was on trail by 10:00.  When I mosey thru Devil’s Tater Patch I notice that Ol’ Scratch was going to have a sorry crop this year.

I descended down through Big Abrams Gap and then it was  a steady rise to Russell Field Shelter.   Another one right on the trail.  I had my lunch there.  The wind was cool.

I took a little nap and was back on the trail at about 1400.  I walked through a tunnel of Rhododendron for about a half a mile then I crossed about three minor ridges.  I found the side trail to Spence Field Shelter.  It was about a quarter of a mile down that trail. 

The field had pecans trees.  It took me a moment to recognize them.  This shelter had the standard water source, bear cables and a privy.

We had a hiker there that was deep into “hiker’s hunger”.  He fixed stove top stuffing, mashed potatoes, ramen noodles, chicken and gravy.  

He ate every morsel.

AT 183.7 - 2009 to go

THURSDAY 5/12 Derrick Knob Shelter 

I awoke at dawn and got breakfast made.  I put the solar cell out in the morning sun to get as much of a charge as I could.  During breakfast a doe came and checked us out. 

I left about 1030 to give the solar cell time to change.   I soon made the summit of Rocky Top (m 184.8 miles and elevation of 5422 ft.)  at 1230.  I was greeted with a beautiful vista of 360º.  I decided to have my lunch there and allow the solar cell to charge some more.  While relaxing I was passed by about 3 other hikers.  They were just hurrying through.  I mentioned the view and most of them just swiveled their heads from side to side, getting a quick glance in,  and were gone.   I was tempted to look down the trail where they came from to see what type of hounds from hell were on these hikers' heels.

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Once I left Rocky Top it was less than a mile to Thunderhead Mtn.  When I arrived there was basically no view.  There was a large rock to stand on but the surrounding growth was still taller than I was standing on top.  I headed down to Beechnut Gap and found the water source which was about ¼ down from the trail.  This one had twin pipes

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I continued on and soon came to climb another peak that wasn’t on my maps nor did anyone seem to know the name of.  I believe it should be christened Mt Samuel L. Jackson.  Because this climb was definitely his favorite catchphrase.  There were a couple of spots where I had to use my hands to get up the slope; it was that steep.

But once I crested I was able to start a much more reasonable descend into Stanley Gap then with a quick jaunt over a small ridge I was at Sugartree Gap.

1.9 miles to the shelter.

And it was a steady climb to 4830 ft.  But I made it right at 1900.

The shelter had a crowd but most were using their tents or hammocks.  There was one hiker there who I found out had the trail name of pirate because:

WARNING: GRAPHIC CONTENT THAT MAY CAUSE UNWANTED MENTAL IMAGERY.

He had dropped his cell phone into a privy hole and had to go “digging” for treasure.

HEY!  That ain’t one of my puns but I have to admire it.

AT 189.8 - 2003 to go

FRIDAY 5/13 Derrick Knob Shelter 

There is rain in the forecast by about 1400.  At Spence Field Shelter I had checked the pack's fly cover only to discover it didn’t have any. R’ut R’ho!

I decided to take a zero day although I’m anxious to get to Gatlinburg.  I sat at the shelter and observed a doe graze in the grass around the shelter.  The doe is aware of me but she was born in the park and knows that humans ain’t a threat to it’s well being; in general.  There was also a chipmunk running around in the shelter.  It too knew I wasn’t going to harm it.  Matter of fact; I had noticed that every one of these Smoky’s shelters seem to have a resident chipmunk. 

My clothes have been getting steadily looser and I’ve been having to pull my belt steadily tighter for quite some time now.  There was a large pullover shirt left behind and out of curiosity I tried it on.  It fits!  My regular shirts were all 3XL.  Seems a new wardrobe is in order.

The rains came in about noon time and I sat and watched. 

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 It  made me sleepy so I took a nap.  When I awoke others had shown up and one was a Ridge Runner named Amelia.  She was a tall woman 5’10” or 11”.  She asked to see my permit and I showed it to her.  She asked me when I arrived since it was still early and I told her it was last night.  I explained that I didn’t have a cover for my pack and I didn’t want to get the contents wet.  She was sympathetic but cautioned me not to admit I stayed an extra night in any shelter to an actual Ranger.  She said they can be a bit on the prickish side.  She also had an industrial grade garbage bag and let me have it to put in my pack and put my stuff inside it.  I have noticed that several of the other hikers at various other shelters were using that hack.  I was very appreciative.  

The shelter started to get crowded again with hikers towards evening but Amelia was able to check all permits and help coordinate.  She told us that since the toilet field was getting a little punky that it would be better if we went about a ¼ mile north or south on the trail to dig our catholes.  

Someone asked her about the state lines and she said that for the most part the trail was the state line.  Most of the shelters were on the Tennessee side and most of the privy and toilet fields were on the North Carolina side.

Sleep in Tennessee and crap in North Carolina; make of it what you will. 

SATURDAY 5/14 Double Spring Gap Shelter 

Feeling great and raring to go I got an early start.  I said my goodbyes to Amilia, thanked her again for the trash bag, and off I went.  I turned the phone off to save the battery since there wasn’t much sun to charge the solar cell.  I made Silers Bald Shelter (195.5 mm / 5455 elevation) by 1330.  I stopped for lunch, and it started to rain as soon as I stepped in.

Looking the shelter over; compared to all the other Smoky Mtn Shelters this one is a little shabby.   Double Spring Gap Shelter was only 1.7 mile away.  When the rain stopped I made a dash for it.  This part of the hike was great with some great views and very easy grade.  Coming upon the shelter I started to see Douglas Fir trees and the down trees had green moss on them.  The Smoky Mountains is suppose to be on the borderline of being a tropical rainforest.  This area showed me why.

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I made Double Spring Gap Shelter around 17:00.  I started making my dinner which wasn’t going to be much since the two extra days out had cut into my supplies.  Dinner was going to be a spam burrito and mashed potatoes but a camper at this shelter came up and offered us some fresh venison sausage.  I jumped on it.

I boiled the sausage with black pepper then made my mashed potatoes with the broth.  I dined on that and washed it down with the leftover broth.

Ambrosia

I was actually full.  A sensation I usually don’t feel unless I’m in town.

Now I’ll have a spam burrito for breakfast.

AT 197.2 - 1996 to go

SUNDAY 5/15 Clingmans Dome

In the morning while waiting for the others to finish up and leave I started chatting with a pair of hikers, Jason and Stephanie; they were siblings.  Jason lived in Orlando Florida and Stephanie in one of the Boroughs of New York City.  Stehpanie had said something about how much she liked Helen and the little creek that ran through the town and I corrected her by telling her that it was the Chattahoochee River. And she told me that compared to the East River, it was a creek.  And I mention how when I was west of the Mississippi River I was bad about mistaking those rivers for creeks.

Come to find out Stephanie was very familiar with Griffin Ga.  A good friend of hers is the Assistance DA for Spalding Co.  She also knew where Newnan was.  

They were just up here hiking the Smoky’s and had a car parked at Newfound Gap.  They were getting off at Clingmans Dome.

We left the shelter by 0900.  They quickly pulled away from me and gained ground.

I met another couple who were day hiking and we chatted a bit.  I mentioned I had stayed the night before at the shelter and was going to get off at Clingmans Dome to get to town to resupply because I had eaten my last spam burrito that morning.  They started to offer me some of what they had in their pack but I stopped them and told them I wasn’t trying to Yogi them.  I was fine and can soon be in a town to resupply.  Also I could pick up a bite at the center at Clingmans Dome.  We all wished each other well then I was on my way.

The climb was steep but not MF steep like so many of the others. 

I made the bypass trail and descended down it. 6/10 of a  miles and I was in the parking area.   I went to the welcome center  and found out that all they had was sovereign, trail mix, and bottle water. This place has no electricity except for solar panels and a generator, just enough for some lights and running their computer/register.

I ended up with a trail mix. 

I got to talking to one of the volunteers, a Michael Dunlap, and was asking about shuttle services from Newfound Gap.  He assured me no such critter existed.  Seemed that was trail hearsay.  But he offered to be a trail Angel and take me into town when his shift ended.  I waited around and since the sun was good allowed my solar cell to charge and my phone along with it.  My phone had gotten down to 1%.

I got a weak signal and by using the Priceline app I got a booking on a Days Inn in Gatlinburg at $45 a night.  I jumped on it.

I told Michael about the booking but he only knew where the NOC was in Gatlinburg and not the Days Inn.  After his shift we loaded up and it was a beautiful drive to Gatlinburg.  We got to the first red light right at the edge of town and there was the NOC.  I looked up and catty cornered to the NOC, across the street was the Days Inn.  

I was dropped off and checked in.  First thing was getting a shower.  I allowed the tub to fill up with the shower water to better allow my feed to soak.  The water was black by the time I finished.  But my feet were clean.

I enquired about laundry at the front desk and was told it was about two mile out.  There was a trolley that would take me and they pointed out where it would stop across the street.  But the laundromat was already closed for the night so I would have to get it first thing in the morning.

The last time I was in Gatlinburg was in the mid-90’s.  I strolled around town and recognized nothing.  The town has changed since then.  I stopped at the Shoney’s and got a burger.  On the way back to the hotel I ran into Quip and Halfchop, two characters from the Fontana Hilton.  They had gone to Trail Days in Damascus Va.  Quip had won an Ultralight Backpack while there.  It was only 40 ltr and they were going back to their hotel on the other side of town to pack then leave in the morning after mailing his excess home.  They asked where I was staying and I told them and told them how much I was paying.  They told me they were paying twice that much.

Soon I was back at the hotel and having a good night's sleep.

AT 200.0 - 1993 to go